The Eclectic Spirit of Sufism in India : An Appraisal

The entrance to the shrine is situated at the extremity of a long bazaar, which runs the whole length of the town. Several monumental gateways, marble domes, and mosques can be seen above the exterior line of wall sand stand out against the huge grey mountain which rises like a pyramid behind them. I went to visit the shrine with a letter of recommendation from the governor; who however, told me that I must not expect to be treated politely, for as a rule Europeans are not allowed to enter it. I was stopped at the first gate by a group of sombre and fanatical-looking men, who told me, in no measured terms, that I could go no farther without first taking off my boots. Having made up my mind socks on my feet, I followed one of the moolahs, who offered himself as my guide. We entered a great court paved with white material, so perfectly polished that the sun shone on it as on smooth water. On all sides stood mosques and tombs of dazzling whiteness; and in the centre, surrounded by a beautiful group of trees, was the mausoleum, as white as its surroundings.